How to Clean a Rug at Home (Without Ruining It)

To clean a rug, work out what it is made of first, then match the method to the fibre. For most rugs, that means:

1. Shake or beat it outside to loosen grit.
2. Vacuum the top and the back, using gentle suction near any fringe.
3. Treat spots by blotting with a weak dishwashing liquid solution, then rinsing.
4. Dry it flat and completely, with good airflow and out of direct sun.

Small rugs labelled machine washable can usually go in the washing machine. Wool rugs need a gentler touch, and viscose, antique, handmade and valuable rugs are best left to a professional. The sections below cover each rug type step by step.

Look for a care label on the back of the rug. It usually tells you the fibre and how the maker wants it cleaned. As Consumer Reports puts it, follow the manufacturer's instructions first. If the label is gone, here is what to expect from the common rug types:

• Synthetic (polypropylene, nylon, polyester): the most forgiving. Australian rug seller Trends Rugs says polypropylene is the material best suited to deep cleaning at home.
• Wool: durable, but absorbent, so it holds water and dries slowly. Godfrey Hirst warns that haphazard spot removal on wool can cause permanent colour loss and pile distortion. Use as little water as possible.
• Viscose (also sold as art silk or bamboo silk): Trends Rugs advises against steam cleaning viscose and warns that over-wetting can cause browning. Blot spills, and leave anything more to a professional.
• Jute, sisal and other plant fibres: Consumer Reports advises blotting spills immediately from the edges in, without rubbing, and testing any cleaner first. Many have a rubber backing, so check the label before using water.
• Shag and high-pile: vacuum with suction only. Consumer Reports notes a rotating brush can damage shag or get tangled in it.
• Antique, handmade or valuable rugs: some use dyes that are not colourfast, and Consumer Reports notes wet cleaning can damage them. These are professional jobs.

Before any wet cleaning, check that the colours will not run. Dampen a white cloth with plain water and press or gently rub it on a hidden part of the rug. Do this on each colour, not just one.

If colour comes off on the cloth, Consumer Reports warns the rug will bleed during cleaning. Stick to shaking and vacuuming, and have it looked at by a professional before any wet cleaning.

Do the same test with any cleaning product. The Carpet and Rug Institute advises pretesting every cleaner on a hidden area and following the directions carefully, noting that more is not better.

How often? Richard Turner, former director of technical services at the Carpet and Rug Institute, told CNN Underscored that rugs in high-traffic areas such as entries and living rooms benefit from vacuuming daily or every second day, and quieter rooms weekly or fortnightly.

Machine-washable rugs. If the label says machine washable, the Carpet and Rug Institute suggests shaking the rug outside first, washing it in warm water (about 32 to 40 °C) with a mild detergent, and tumble-drying on the lowest heat. If the label gives different settings, follow the label.

Rugs labelled dry clean only. Call the dry cleaner first. The Carpet and Rug Institute notes many dry cleaners do not handle rugs.

Everything else. The hand-cleaning method below suits synthetic rugs, and wool rugs that have passed the dye test and whose label allows wet cleaning. Do not use it on viscose, antique or handmade rugs.

The rules for spills are the same as for carpet. The Carpet and Rug Institute advises blotting liquids with a dry white cloth or plain white paper towel, since printed or coloured material can transfer dye, and scooping up semi-solids with a spoon. Do not scrub or use a brush. Work any cleaner in gently from the edges towards the centre.

One rug-specific point: a rug has no underlay beneath it, so a big spill can soak straight through to the floor. Lift the corner and check underneath, and put a towel under that section while you work.

For specific stains, see our guides to coffee stains on rugs and carpet, red wine, dog urine and pet hair, or our complete guide to removing carpet stains.

Drying matters as much as cleaning. A rug that stays damp can develop a musty smell and mould, and wool holds water longer than synthetic fibres.

• Dry it flat. Hanging a wet rug puts strain on the fibres and backing.
• Get air to both sides. Prop it up or turn it over once the top is dry, and use a fan in a room with good airflow.
• Keep it out of direct sun. Trends Rugs warns that strong Australian sun can fade rugs, and recommends drying in the shade.
• Make sure it is completely dry before you put it back on the floor, especially over timber floors or a rug pad.

Regular shaking, vacuuming and spot cleaning are DIY jobs. A professional clean makes sense when:

• the rug is viscose, antique, handmade, silk or valuable
• the dye test showed colour coming off
• the rug is large, heavy, or too dirty for a home clean
• there is a deep stain or odour, such as pet urine, that has soaked through
• a home clean has left the rug patchy, stiff or smelling musty

We clean rugs on site as part of our carpet steam cleaning service, using hot water extraction when the rug is suitable. Because rugs vary so much, we quote them after we have seen them: the price depends on the rug and how dirty it is. If a rug is not suited to hot water extraction, we will tell you rather than risk it. You can see our carpet rates on the carpet cleaning prices page, and we clean across Canberra and Queanbeyan; see our main carpet cleaning page. If the rug sits on or near a couch that also needs attention, see our upholstery cleaning service.